Drone sliding bores

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Drone sliding bores

Postby Nick Hopkinson » Thu Dec 05, 2013 9:57 am

Question about drone sliding parts. I have previously (ok i'm not very experienced)bored out the large bore for the slide after gluing on the brass ferrule. You can then turn the rest of the part holding the brass in the chuck but with the obvious disadvantage that the brass may be marked. Loss of centric doesn't seem to be a problem. If you bore and turn down the diameter without the brass on you are looking at a very thin tube of wood. Isn't there a problem of either breaking or at least distorting it?
Nick Hopkinson
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Full Name: Nick Hopkinson

Re: Drone sliding bores

Postby Francis Wood » Thu Dec 05, 2013 2:35 pm

Nick, much depends on how accurate your chuck is and also the state of the jaw surfaces.

Since your chuck doesn't display notable 'loss of centric', there should be no problem holding the brass in the chuck. I would wrap the brass with one or two turns of good paper, ensuring that there is no overlap. This will avoid marking the brass and the paper should provide sufficient friction without having to hold the ferrule too tightly.

If you have the opportunity to bore the sockets with a boring bar, careful work with this is often more successful in producing a parallel hole than a counter-bore or reamer.

I wouldn't attempt to turn the exterior of the socketed part if it is very thin. If it has a well-fitting but uncompressed plug, you may get away with it. Supported only on a conical centre, the likelihood of splitting is great. Certainly so with ebony and blackwood, though less so with box.

Francis Wood
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Re: Drone sliding bores

Postby andymay » Wed Jan 22, 2014 9:53 pm

Hi Nick,

I've just been doing this today. My current favoured method is to bore the slide bore undersize by about 1mm into the large thick piece of wood, and then to turn it down and fit the ferrule. Then - maybe after letting the piece rest a few days/weeks, i open it out to the correct size. I feel this involves less heat build up than trying to remove a lot of wood with the ferrule in place, and give better, more parallel results. Then i can turn the piece around and hold the middle of the piece to make the top end of the drone thin enough to accept its ferrule, tuning bead etc, with the slide still protected by the ferrule but in the back of the chuck behind the section being gripped.

Then finally i use a mandrel which closely fits the slide bore, held in the chuck, to support the piece while i finish off the middle, exposed part of the wood.

Wow this is difficult to explain in words!!! Does that make sense?

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